June, 2017:

James Andrew, Temple of Concord, Agrigento

Agrigento was a most breathtaking drive from Palermo, particularly because our scenic route was laid out by Maria Carolina Castellucci who was invaluable in organizing so much of our trip!

Our hotel, Villa Athena, is located right at the Valle dei Templi park, giving it tremendous views any time, day or night. The Hotel is an old manor house and could be rather fab with a proper refurbishment – I immediately had the room emptied of most of its furniture and was much happier with less clutter. The cuisine was so sublime and the staff very helpful!

Relatively contemporary sculpture by Igor Mitoraj compliment the ruins at Agrigento.

Hotel Villa Athena was the perfect spot from which to explore Valle dei Temple. We really took our time to explore every inch of these ravishing ruins. The 5th and 6th century BC temples here were dedicated to Olympian Zeus, Heracles, Concord and Hera. Needless to say, it is quite something to be amidst so much history.

The proximity of the hotel made it an easy thing to have a leisurely breakfast, explore the ruins, come back for a relaxing lunch and head out again. Dinner provided views of the Temple of Concord all lit up at night after the most sensational sunset.

The next day we were off at dawn – en route to Noto with a few stops along the way. Our impossibly chic friend Antonio Sersale recommended that we visit Piazza Armerina and particularly the 4th century Villa del Casale. Every room of the estate is decorated with magnificent mosaic floors. A flood in the 12th century buried the villa in mud, preserving the mosaic floors until they were rediscovered seven centuries later.

Villa del Casale- mosaic detail

While we visited with the Marchesa di Spedalotto she suggested we stop in on her son Vincenzo Paterno di Spedalotto who has an olive grove, Domus Olivae. We are so thrilled we did! We had a delightful time with Vincenzo and his wife and were given a tour of the manor house they have restored so perfectly. His award winning virgin olive oil, Tondo Olive Oil, is certainly the most delicious I have ever tasted. We can’t wait to return.

Vincenzo Paterno di Spedalotto’s Domus Olivae

Next stop: the Jacques Garcia Resort, Noto.

For my exploration of Valle del Templi I am sporting my Lock & Co straw panama hat, Tom Ford era Yves Saint Laurent black cotton poplin banded collar safari shirt, white cotton shorts, a Kiel James Patrick belt, vintage Rolex, Louboutin sandal espadrilles and my fragrance is Tom Ford Neroli Portofino.

james Andrew Grand Hotel Villa Igiea

Palermo was the first stop on our Sicilian adventure, and I was quite pleased that we were able to tour nearly all of the palazzos we had on our list!

Certainly at the top of said list was the exotic Chinoiserie fantasy, Palazzo Cinese, an absolutely delicious example of 18th century taste for the exotic and all things Eastern.

Palazzo Cinese

Palazzo Cinese ceiling detail – click to enlarge

Palazzo Cinese interior detail – click to enlarge

James Andrew Palazzo Cinese exterior

Another dream realized, was our visit to Palazzo Valguarnera-Gangi, which you may recall provided much of the backdrop for Visconti’s masterpiece, Il Gattopardo. It was also captured in several iconic photos by Slim Aarons. There we were received by the ravishing Princess Carine Vanni Mantegna who gave us a tremendous tour of the Palazzo and a marvelous lesson in its history. Sadly, no photos were allowed. I did go prepared just in case – with leopard espadrilles no less, to be photographed in the beautiful ballroom there. But Alas.

Another highlight was Palazzo Mirto – a nobleman’s mansion preserved with its original furnishings. Think: a Palerm version of New York’s Frick. The 18th century palazzo was lived in by its last heir until 1980. It was interesting to see that some of the walls had been upholstered in silk damask which had disintegrated over the years revealing original painted frescoes underneath.

Palazzo Mirto – interior detail – click to enlarge

Another palazzo of note was del Normanni with its fascinating Arab-Norman architecture.

When traveling, one must also allow time to wander and get lost. Often one stumbles upon some real gems, which is an easy thing in Sicily.

Our very favorite restaurant in Palermo was certainly Lo Scudiero, an old school establishment serving Sicilian delights which we asked to be paired with the best Sicilian wines. Bliss!

Next stop Agrigiento!

For our last dinner in Palermo we dined al fresco on the terrace at the Grand Hotel Villa Igiea, a rather fabulous farewell to Palermo!

Dressed for dinner in a Tom Ford linen silk floral dinner jacket, black linen pants, white cotton shirt, fushcia silk pocket square, fuschia ikat velvet slippers, shell cuff links with pink tourmalines, Cartier Tank Divan watch, black suede espadrilles, and my fragrance is Tom Ford Neroli Portofino.